One Day Late, Still Worth the Wait
This edition lands a day behind schedule, but the climbing world gave us more than enough to catch up on. From mythic trad lines and V15 first ascents to comp momentum and bigger questions about where the sport is heading, the past week had range.
Benchmark Sends, Fresh Festivals and Long-Term Perspective
This week's highlights cut across performance, culture, and longevity. Adam Ondra added another elite boulder to the list, Stefano Ghisolfi pulled off a first 9a-in-a-day, Zach Galla pushed deeper into 9A territory, and a new Himalayan festival showed how climbing communities keep expanding. At the same time, the conversation around climbing for life stayed in view — a fitting counterpoint to all the cutting-edge headlines.
Adam Ondra Sends Captain Nemo 8C
On the same day he flashed Celestite 8C, Ondra also sent Captain Nemo — one of the best problems around with a perfect power/technique combo, topped off with endurance and fear factor at the end.
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Mellow Jam Comes to Japan — April 18
The only Mellow Film Tour screening in Japan. Stacked crew, open jam, and exclusive merch — a Saturday event on April 18 with film, open jam, and pro jam.
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Stefano Ghisolfi's First 9a in a Day — Mascella Serrata in Arco
Ghisolfi took down the new route from Gabri Moroni in Arco — Mascella Serrata — on his 4th go. A surprising send after just three tries working out the beta with Alex Tajas.
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Zach Galla Climbs Megatron (9A) — His Third 9A Boulder
Zach Galla climbs Megatron (9A) and secures his third 9A boulder. All the details on the route, its history and the repeats.
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Rakchham Climbing Festival — Where the Himalaya Meets the Boulder Community
The first Rakchham Climbing Festival brought together over 50 climbers from 15 countries at 3,000 metres altitude — more a family gathering than a small event.
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Climbing for Life — How to Stay Strong Into Old Age
How can we continue to climb at a high level in the second half of our lives? A conversation with Dr Volker Schöffl, doctor for the German national climbing team.
Read article →Trad Testpieces, V15s and Routes That Matter
The ascents this week were defined by ambition. Climbers took on legendary trad benchmarks, proposed new hard lines, and kept pushing at the sharp end of both bouldering and sport. What ties it all together is commitment: these were not casual sends, but efforts built on style, risk, and serious intent.
Connor Herson on Bon Voyage 9a — Mecca of French Trad
Annot, France. Bon Voyage — a mythical trad 9a/5.14d established by James Pearson. Featuring nails-hard bouldering above well-spaced protection. Herson's mindset shift was the real win: climbing for the sake of climbing.
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Daniel Woods First Ascent of Wavelength V15 Hard
A 55-degree overhung sandstone wave feature in Roy, NM. Four grips, escalating difficulty, and a committing final jump to an unseen sloping hold. Woods sent it as a buzzer-beater moment before desert temperatures warmed up.
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Seb Bouin FA of Le Champ des Muses (5.15b/9b) in the Drôme
After coming back from China empty-handed, Bouin turned to a physical, endurance-based prow at Romeyer. Proposes hard 9a+ or soft 9b — leaning toward the latter as it fits his style perfectly.
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La Sportiva Tour — Torino Is Where It All Began
The La Sportiva tour kicked off in Torino with sessions at Bside Climbing School and the first viewing of Exodia — the film about the world's first proposed 9A+. Next stop: Paris, April 13-14.
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Nicolai Užnik First Ascent of Bügelbrett (8C+) in Maltatal
The 25-year-old opened Bügelbrett on the legendary Bügeleisen boulder — adding another obvious start to one of Austria's most historic boulders.
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Jules Marchaland Climbs Ephyra V16 — His First
Marchaland, the second boulderer ever to flash V15, has just ticked his first V16 with Ephyra.
Read article →Season Signals and New Destinations
Competition climbing kept building in the background. Continental results, legacy event announcements, and festival news all pointed to a calendar that is getting fuller, broader, and more international. The energy now is less about one big result and more about positioning: athletes, organizers, and events are all setting the stage for what comes next.
Tomoa Narasaki Takes Silver at Asian Championships
The season has officially started. Narasaki took 2nd place at the Asian Championships in Meishan, China — securing his spot for the upcoming Asian Games in Nagoya.
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Adam Ondra Returns as Rock Master 2026 Ambassador
Ondra returns to Arco — the Home of Climbing — as Event Ambassador for Rock Master 2026. From October 2-4, the festival celebrates its 40th anniversary.
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Pro Climbing League London — Vote for the Coolest Move
Four of the coolest moves from PCL London — cast your vote for the favourite, or suggest another in the comments.
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Shauna Coxsey and Jenya Kazbekova Crush on Rock and Plastic
After sharing the podium and isolation with their babies, Coxsey and Kazbekova headed to Fontainebleau together and sent hard boulders. A uniquely special experience for both.
Read article →New Tools, Open Questions
Gear this week was quieter on big launches, but still revealing. Product testing, app updates, and developer statements kept attention on the tools climbers rely on — and on the frustration that comes when those tools do not work as expected. Not every gear story is about innovation. Some are about trust, fixes, and whether the product keeps up with the community around it.
Kilter Board — Statement From the Dev Team
A statement from the Kilter Board dev team thanking users for their patience and feedback, with a promise of exciting updates to share soon.
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Crashpad Test 2026 — 8 Bouldering Mats in Practice
Crashpads are essential kit for outdoor bouldering. Which of eight tested models are best for landing, handling, and transport?
Read article →Beyond the Grade
Away from pure performance, the sport kept asking bigger questions. New films, old legends, community events, and reflections on climbing's future all pushed the conversation past difficulty and into culture, identity, and meaning. It is a useful reminder: climbing grows not only through harder routes, but through the stories it tells about itself.
Jakob Schubert Checks Out Duality of Man (9c) in Red Rocks
Schubert got two tries on Sean Bailey's new 9c — now the hardest route in America, replacing Supreme Jumbo Love. Starts with 8c+ through a pumpy roof, then a brutal boulder crux. He'll return next winter after first repeating another 9c.
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Alex Megos on Ukrainian бабусь and Pickled Vegetables
Megos' favourite place to buy food is from local бабусь (grandmas) selling homemade food — pickled tomatoes, cucumbers, mushrooms, eggplants. A cultural tradition he wishes existed more in Germany.
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Dean Potter HBO Docu-Series — Directors Interview
Climbing Magazine sat down with Peter Mortimer and Nick Rosen, directors of a new Dean Potter docu-series on HBO. Potter's rivalry with Honnold, the glorification of free soloing, and unsolved mysteries about the revolutionary figure.
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The Future of Climbing Film Now Available
Climbing is evolving fast — gyms booming, Olympic sport, mainstream culture. But outdoor crags face access, closures, environmental impact. A new film explores the crossroads, featuring Cédric Lachat.
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The Future of Climbing — Award-Winning Climbing Film Now Free
The multi-award-winning film The Future of Climbing takes a serious yet humorous look at the future of the sport. Featuring Chris Sharma and Dave Graham.
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What Happens When This Climber Breaks the First Rule of Alpine Climbing
Do rules in alpine climbing even exist? A climber breaks one cardinal rule — with consequences worth watching.
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