Legends, Long Games and the Next Level
This week's climbing stories were not just about grades. They were about mindset shifts, career perspective, youth momentum, and the tension between pushing harder and staying patient enough to keep going. From hard trad and 9c ambitions to tributes, comebacks, and rising juniors, the sport kept showing its full range.
Big Questions, Big Respect, Big Potential
This week's highlights brought together legacy and ambition. Jimmy Chin's tribute to Dean Potter gave the edition emotional weight, Jakob Schubert offered a rare look at what a future 9c campaign could demand, and the next generation kept building momentum on the comp side. At the same time, new titles, new prize money, and V18 speculation showed just how quickly the ceiling keeps moving.
Is Will Bosi's Graffiti-Covered Project the Next V18?
Found in Scotland, Bosi says it's his hardest boulder project yet — and could potentially be the next V18.
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Jimmy Chin Remembers Dean Potter — Would Have Been 54
Dean Potter would have been 54 years old yesterday. He was one of a kind. Miss you my friend.
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Jakob Schubert on Duality of Man (9c) — A Future 9c Campaign?
Two tries on Sean Bailey's 9c testpiece in Arizona — the hardest route in America. 8c+ roof, brutal boulder crux, short sun windows. Schubert will return next winter after first repeating another 9c.
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Ethan Maxfield Takes Bronze at Europe Youth Series Opener
The 2026 World Climbing Europe Youth Series got off to a flying start for Great Britain, with Ethan Maxfield claiming the first medal of the season — a boulder bronze in Soure, Portugal.
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World Climbing Allocates Over €1 Million in Record 2026 Prize Money
The IFSC (World Climbing) announces record prize money for 2026 — over €1 million allocated across the competition season.
Read article →Hard Rock, Harder Decisions
The sharp end stayed busy this week. Climbers stacked up serious routes and boulders, but the most interesting thread was how many of these ascents came with uncertainty, reflection, or unfinished business. This was not just a week of sends. It was a week of testing limits, evaluating grades, and choosing what to chase next.
Connor Herson on Bon Voyage 9a — Mecca of French Trad
Annot, France. Bon Voyage — James Pearson's mythical trad 9a/5.14d with nails-hard bouldering above spaced protection. Herson's real takeaway: climbing for the sake of climbing, not just not falling.
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Seb Bouin Takes the Second Ascent of Le Dard (9a)
After sending Le Chant des Muses, Bouin took advantage of the north wind to complete the second ascent of Le Dard near Grenoble — first ascended by Cédric Lachat. He suggests 9a might fit, but calls it soft for Grenoble.
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Fotofobia 8b+/V14 Sent in La Pedriza
A slight overhang and some sharp crimps — Fotofobia 8b+/V14 topped out in La Pedriza, Spain. Inspired by Shauna Coxsey's video of the line.
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17-Year-Old Gianluca Vighetti Sends Bombardino (9a+) on His Second Try
The 17-year-old Italian climbed Bombardino at Bus de la Stria near Arco in a single day, on his second attempt — the sixth ascent of the route. He proposes a downgrade.
Read article →Youth Momentum and Bigger Stakes
Competition climbing kept building from multiple directions. Youth events delivered fresh names to watch, established circuits continued to refine their identity, and record prize money signaled how much the sport's structure is changing. The season still feels like it is ramping up, but the scale is already growing.
Stefano Ghisolfi Trains in Arco Ahead of Competition Season
Arco isn't just good for outdoor climbing — it's also one of the best training spots for comps, thanks to the Italia Climbing training center on the Rock Master Festival wall.
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PCL London — Max's Beta-Break Hand Jam Wins Best Move
The PCL London best move poll crowned Max's beta-break hand jam as the real answer. It wasn't the only time climbers surprised setters with new methods.
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Arc'teryx Climb Academy Returns to the Lake District for 2026
Hot on the heels of the Chamonix Academy announcement, Arc'teryx confirms its premier UK event returns to the birthplace of British rock climbing.
Read article →Performance, Recovery and Product Cycles
Gear stories this week sat at the intersection of innovation and practicality. New footwear, updated seasonal recommendations, and even mobile finger diagnostics all pointed to a climbing culture that is increasingly tuned to performance management. It is no longer just about what helps you climb harder today, but what helps you stay in the game tomorrow.
Best Climbing Shoes of 2026 — April Update
From 5.14 vertical faces in Spain to Illinois gym sessions, the year's best shoes put through the wringer. The top 9 picks that actually held up across 37,000 vertical feet of testing.
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The North Face Launches the Verto Approach Shoe
The all-new Verto Approach shoes, designed in partnership with The North Face Climb athletes for all-day support and comfort on vertical terrain.
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Portable Ultrasound Scan Diagnoses James Pearson's Finger Pulley
Pearson got a portable ultrasound in a van — his 5-month finger injury is actually a pulley on the mend. Perfect timing for ammonite hunting.
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Scarpa Launches the Blackbird — 3D-Printed Climbing Shoe
Designed for technical rock climbing, the Blackbird features a 3D-printed Pebax midsole with carbon fibre reinforcement — a completely new approach to vertical performance.
Read article →The Sport Looking at Itself
Outside the sends and podiums, this week had a reflective tone. Stories about aging, legacy, injury patience, and the meaning of progress pushed climbing beyond pure performance. The result was a broader picture of the sport: one that still celebrates difficulty, but increasingly asks what lasts.
Janja Garnbret on a Cool Boulder
Just a cool boulder from the other day — another Kaito Watanabe classic.
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Alex Megos Returns to Frankenjura Project — Finger Still Healing
First time back on the project in the Frankenjura, but his finger is still not ready. Megos had to be patient and wait, spending the day repeating classics like Grüne Mamba 10+ and Stoney Road 10/+.
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Chris Sharma on What It Takes to Climb at a High Level
It's not one big moment. It's showing up consistently, staying curious, and embracing the fact that progress is rarely linear.
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Old Man Lightning — John Sherman Revisits Midnight Lightning
John "Verm" Sherman — behind the V-grade scale — set out to revisit Midnight Lightning (V8). The 60-minute film Old Man Lightning blends humor with themes of aging and motivation.
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Hundreds of Routes Unexpectedly Close at Massachusetts Crag
Local climbers announced the immediate closure of Farley Ledges — the closest major climbing area to Boston — after a landowner banned access.
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