World Cup Heat, Hard Boulders and Open Doors
This edition feels like a shift into full speed. World Cup action is back, hard outdoor ascents keep stacking up, and access news brings rare good momentum.
Podiums, V17 Power and Reopened Rock
Janja starts the season with silver, Zach Galla's Megatron gets its spotlight, and Zhao Yicheng rewrites speed climbing history. Away from pure performance, Melloblocco returns and Red River Gorge gets long-closed routes back — a strong week for both climbing culture and access.
Janja Garnbret Takes Silver at World Cup Opener
One too many mistakes and second place at the first World Cup of the season. Mind feels good, body feels good — congrats to Zélia Avezou for a deserved first victory.
View post →
Zach Galla Sends Megatron (V17) — Capstone of His Season
Megatron was the perfect capstone. After Shaolin earlier in the winter, Galla carried his momentum to Colorado. Finding that moment of focus to link it all is something he says he'll never forget.
View post →
Melloblocco 2026 Begins May 6-9 in Val di Mello
The world's largest bouldering and climbing meeting takes over Val di Mello and Val Masino from May 6 to 9. More than 1,100 climbers have already registered, with 30 international athletes en route.
View post →
Red River Gorge Reopens Oil Crack and Arena After 22 Years
Closed since 2004 when an oil company bought the land, Oil Crack and Arena are officially re-opening. The Red River Gorge Climbers' Coalition has secured an agreement to bring back 83 routes, hopefully this fall.
View post →
Zhao Yicheng Smashes Speed World Record — 4.58 Seconds
The 16-year-old Chinese climber set a new speed climbing world record at the 2026 Asian Beach Games in Sanya — racing the 15-meter wall in 4.58 seconds on April 28.
Read article →Big Grades, Bigger Momentum
This week is full of climbers operating close to the top end: V17, 9a, alpine first ascents, and strong repeats across Europe and the US. The main thread: elite climbers are not just sending — they are setting up the next wave.
Shawn Raboutou's Tribute to Connor Herson and Zach Galla
Both have been putting a ton of work into climbing the hardest stuff. Galla's first 2 years as a full-time pro: 3 V17 boulders. Herson reinventing what's possible. Cheers to climbing.
View post →
Seb Bouin Sends Gorilles Stin Omichli Extension in Greece
Second go on a fresh project in Kyparissi, Greece. After breaking the key tufa on his Elona project several times, Bouin pivoted to exploration. Calls Gorilles Stin Omichli closer to 8c with kneepads.
View post →
François Cazzanelli Opens Alla Ricerca del Drago — 14 Pitches Alpine FA
On April 27, Cazzanelli with Étienne Janin and Stefano Tetostrad opened a 14-pitch, 800m R4 / AI 4+ / M7 line. A new alpine adventure on a forgotten face — listening to the mountain.
View post →
Manon Hily Clips the Chains on Trip Tik Tonik (5.14d)
The French climber, competition athlete and nurse adds another 5.14d to a year that already saw her first 5.14d and 5.15a.
Read article →World Cup Mode: Activated
The first World Series stop brought immediate drama: Janja second, Zélia Avezou winning, and the men's field looking sharp. Add a new speed world record and the 2026 season already has real energy.
Mejdi Schalck Takes Bronze in Keqiao
Back in the city again with bronze. First World Series of the year was a blast — another tough battle with Lee Do and Anraku Sorato. Excited to return next year.
View post →
Tomoa Narasaki Finishes Fourth at World Series #1 Keqiao
No podium this time, but the sensation was great. Massive respect to the young guns who pushed me — congrats Anraku Sorato, Lee Do, and Mejdi Schalck. Time to update the personal best.
View post →German Para-Climbing Championships 2026 in Kempten
On Saturday May 2, Germany's top para-climbers and athletes from neighbouring countries gathered in Kempten for the 2026 Open German Para-Climbing Championships.
Read article →Back to the Basics
Gear is light this week, but useful. Petzl's GRIGRI multi-pitch reminder brings the focus back to clean rope handling, brake-side control, and practicing systems before using them outside.
Culture, Access and Climbing Gatherings
From Melloblocco to Saxon sandstone, from Honnold mini-solos to Red River Gorge access news, this section shows climbing beyond the scoreboard. The best story here: closed rock can reopen when communities keep working.
Alex Honnold's Mini Free Solos
You know him for the free solos — but Honnold also enjoys mini free soloing too.
View post →
Beth Rodden Trains Charlize Theron for Apex
Will Hollywood ever get climbing right? When Charlize Theron filmed Apex, Beth Rodden joined to make it feel realistic. Sometimes you don't need to climb 5.12 to look like you climb 5.12.
View post →
La Sportiva's Climb World Tour Wraps After 24 Days, 5,500 km
The Climb World Tour is over: 24 days, almost 5,500 km, lots of food, and so much time on the wall. Plenty of projects still in the works — maybe enough for another tour.
View post →
Adam Ondra on the Magic of Sandstone
Whether red Utah desert sandstone, Fontainebleau grain, or a legendary German-Czech border tower, sandstone offers the deepest connection of fingertips with rock. Read the article and watch the new Saxony film.
View post →
Will Bosi's Granite Project in Scotland — Maybe 8B+
Last move of an incredible granite project in Scotland — maybe not Flatanger but good prep. Too hot for linking, but psyched to return. Bosi estimates around 8B+.
View post →
Adam Ondra's Crag Tip #4 — The Elbe Valley (Labák)
The Elbe Valley is one of Central Europe's most distinctive climbing areas. Ondra's new 17-page PDF covers the best routes and bouldering, ethics, safety, grading, and logistics for trips to Labák and Saxony.
View post →The Lappnor Project — The First 9A Boulder
By now everyone knows what happened on October 23, 2016 — Nalle Hukkataival's first ascent of Burden of Dreams. A revisit of the moment that defined the 9A grade.
Read article →
Remembering Alex Cheon — A Generous Soul
A friend remembers Alex Cheon, who died in a fall from Index, Washington's Lower Town Wall. Whether sharing topropes, melons, or his trumpet — he was generous to the end.
Read article →