← All Editions
Edition #20

Pressure, Progress, and the Long Game

This week feels different. Competition narratives are taking shape, elite projects are getting painfully close, and recovery becomes just as important as performance. Climbing isn't only about sending. It's also about what happens when you can't.

Big Wins, Big Setbacks, Bigger Stories

From Sorato Anraku's dominance in Bern to Will Bosi inching closer to Silence, this week delivers both momentum and tension. Add athlete health, Toby Roberts' injury setback, and a powerful story from Kurdistan, and this edition reaches beyond the usual highlight reel.

@magmidt

World Climbing Tackles Relative Energy Deficiency in Sport

With Magnus Midtbø — former World Cup competitor and now one of climbing's leading creators — the Athletes and Medical & Anti-Doping Commissions explore REDs and its impact on athlete health and performance.

View post
@toby_climbing

Toby Roberts on His Bern Absence — Injury Setback After China

After the China World Cup, Roberts hit a setback with last year's injuries. 4-6 weeks of rest and progressive loading is the right call, but it means missing the next World Cups. He's never going to give up — and earning his way back will make the return feel even better.

View post
@will_bosi

Will Bosi: A Very Slight High Point on Silence

Bosi didn't place the foot well enough, but moving his left hand felt super positive — the crux is there. Feeling better and better on the moves and links.

View post
IFSC

Anraku Makes It Two From Two

Sorato Anraku takes his second consecutive World Climbing competition win — extending his dominance into the Bern stop of the World Series.

Read article
IFSC

Mackenzie Wins First-Ever World Cup Gold for Australia

Oceania Mackenzie's win in Bern is the first ever World Cup gold medal for Australia — a landmark for the country's climbing program.

Read article
RockAndIce

Kurdish Climbers Find Relief on Rock Amid Iran War

Over 20 years after his father was killed in Iraq, a climber travels to Kurdistan to see how the sport serves as a coping mechanism during conflict. "No friends but the mountains."

Read article

Margins at the Absolute Limit

Flash attempts, first ascents, microscopic progress on 9c, and world-class bouldering benchmarks — this week lives in the margins where tiny gains mean everything. Some climbers sent. Others only moved a hand a few centimeters. At this level, both matter.

@adam.ondra

Adam Ondra's Flash Attempt of Mascella Serrata 9a in Arco

Since Ondra hadn't climbed in Arco for a few years, a few 9as were ripe for a flash attempt. Mascella Serrata — established by Gabri Moroni, repeated by Ghisolfi and Laura Rogora — got the call.

View post
@steghiso

Stefano Ghisolfi Sends Big Illusion 8C — 9th 8C+ in Under a Year

Third ascent of Big Illusion 8C, the hardest boulder in Valdaone. 7 sessions and a new technique — "the sliding calf-bar" — got it done. Probably his second hardest boulder after Gioia. Time to go back to sport climbing.

View post
@arcteryx

Jim Pope on UK Classic Rock with Arc'teryx

What makes a classic route? Arc'teryx shares a rope with Jim Pope to find out — a journey through time and rhyolite on two climbs from Ken Wilson's Classic Rock.

View post
@alpin_bergmagazin

Alexander Huber First Free Ascent of Feuersalamander on the Gößlerwand

Alexander Huber completes the first free ascent of Feuersalamander on the Gößlerwand in Styria — a 10-pitch line up to 8b, now among the toughest multi-pitches in the region.

View post
UpClimbing

Mikel Linacisoro Onsights 9a+ and 8c in Two Days at Santa Linya

In just two days at Santa Linya, the Basque climber onsighted Ciudad de Dios (9a+) and Rollito Sharma (8c) — a rare back-to-back onsight performance at the top end.

Read article
Lacrux

Katie Lamb First Ascent of 130 BPM (8C) in Yosemite

Katie Lamb has put up 130 BPM (8C) in Yosemite — her hardest first ascent to date, and a rare female 8C first ascent.

Read article

Bern Delivered

Bern gave us drama, breakthrough moments, heartbreak, and confirmation of the sport's next dominant force. From Sorato's relentless winning streak to Australia's historic first gold, competition climbing continues to evolve at full speed.

Beyond Product Drops

Gear isn't just about new shiny equipment this week. It's also about stewardship, sustainability, and the infrastructure that keeps climbing possible. From rebolting initiatives to purpose-driven collaborations, this section looks at the tools — and responsibilities — that shape the sport beyond performance.

The Human Side of Climbing

Behind the sends and podiums, this week is about bodies, minds, setbacks, and perspective. Athlete health takes center stage, injuries force tough decisions, and climbing once again proves it can be much bigger than grades.

@reelrock

Reel Rock — Dean Potter Free Soloing High on El Cap

Bryan Smith, Mikey Schaefer and Reel Water captured intense footage of Dean Potter free soloing high on El Cap, featured in episode three of HBO's The Dark Wizard.

View post
@jimmychin

Jimmy Chin Joins COROS as Global Brand Ambassador

Climber. Photographer. Storyteller. COROS welcomes Jimmy Chin as a global brand ambassador, with a write-up on his approach to expeditions, storytelling, and how COROS fits into mountain life.

View post
@natalia_grossman

Natalia Grossman's First Day Campusing Since Shoulder Injury

First day campusing since January's shoulder injury. Grateful to be back on the wall after significant time away — still a long road. Grossman recommends the book Rebound and the Curable chronic pain app, and is starting school in clinical mental health this fall.

View post
@climbingmagazine

Weekend Whipper: Ice Climbing Fall Rips Two Screws

Finnish climber Aku Aspila takes a massive fall high on the second pitch of Sodoma (WI5) in Italy's Valle d'Aosta — two screws rip out during the runout.

View post
@rockmasterfestival

40 Years of Rock Master — Ondra Meets Severino Scassa

Adam Ondra meets Severino Scassa, who experienced Rock Master both as spectator and climber. From silent crowds to a true show on the wall — Rock Master keeps evolving, with the next edition this October in Arco.

View post
UpClimbing

Climbing Spot: Verzasca No Big — Cava del Nonno

Exploring Cava del Nonno, a new "no big" crag in Val Verzasca, with local climber and route-setter Rudi Martini.

Read article