Pressure, Progress, and the Long Game
This week feels different. Competition narratives are taking shape, elite projects are getting painfully close, and recovery becomes just as important as performance. Climbing isn't only about sending. It's also about what happens when you can't.
Big Wins, Big Setbacks, Bigger Stories
From Sorato Anraku's dominance in Bern to Will Bosi inching closer to Silence, this week delivers both momentum and tension. Add athlete health, Toby Roberts' injury setback, and a powerful story from Kurdistan, and this edition reaches beyond the usual highlight reel.
World Climbing Tackles Relative Energy Deficiency in Sport
With Magnus Midtbø — former World Cup competitor and now one of climbing's leading creators — the Athletes and Medical & Anti-Doping Commissions explore REDs and its impact on athlete health and performance.
View post →Toby Roberts on His Bern Absence — Injury Setback After China
After the China World Cup, Roberts hit a setback with last year's injuries. 4-6 weeks of rest and progressive loading is the right call, but it means missing the next World Cups. He's never going to give up — and earning his way back will make the return feel even better.
View post →Will Bosi: A Very Slight High Point on Silence
Bosi didn't place the foot well enough, but moving his left hand felt super positive — the crux is there. Feeling better and better on the moves and links.
View post →Anraku Makes It Two From Two
Sorato Anraku takes his second consecutive World Climbing competition win — extending his dominance into the Bern stop of the World Series.
Read article →Mackenzie Wins First-Ever World Cup Gold for Australia
Oceania Mackenzie's win in Bern is the first ever World Cup gold medal for Australia — a landmark for the country's climbing program.
Read article →Kurdish Climbers Find Relief on Rock Amid Iran War
Over 20 years after his father was killed in Iraq, a climber travels to Kurdistan to see how the sport serves as a coping mechanism during conflict. "No friends but the mountains."
Read article →Margins at the Absolute Limit
Flash attempts, first ascents, microscopic progress on 9c, and world-class bouldering benchmarks — this week lives in the margins where tiny gains mean everything. Some climbers sent. Others only moved a hand a few centimeters. At this level, both matter.
Adam Ondra's Flash Attempt of Mascella Serrata 9a in Arco
Since Ondra hadn't climbed in Arco for a few years, a few 9as were ripe for a flash attempt. Mascella Serrata — established by Gabri Moroni, repeated by Ghisolfi and Laura Rogora — got the call.
View post →Stefano Ghisolfi Sends Big Illusion 8C — 9th 8C+ in Under a Year
Third ascent of Big Illusion 8C, the hardest boulder in Valdaone. 7 sessions and a new technique — "the sliding calf-bar" — got it done. Probably his second hardest boulder after Gioia. Time to go back to sport climbing.
View post →Jim Pope on UK Classic Rock with Arc'teryx
What makes a classic route? Arc'teryx shares a rope with Jim Pope to find out — a journey through time and rhyolite on two climbs from Ken Wilson's Classic Rock.
View post →Alexander Huber First Free Ascent of Feuersalamander on the Gößlerwand
Alexander Huber completes the first free ascent of Feuersalamander on the Gößlerwand in Styria — a 10-pitch line up to 8b, now among the toughest multi-pitches in the region.
View post →Mikel Linacisoro Onsights 9a+ and 8c in Two Days at Santa Linya
In just two days at Santa Linya, the Basque climber onsighted Ciudad de Dios (9a+) and Rollito Sharma (8c) — a rare back-to-back onsight performance at the top end.
Read article →Katie Lamb First Ascent of 130 BPM (8C) in Yosemite
Katie Lamb has put up 130 BPM (8C) in Yosemite — her hardest first ascent to date, and a rare female 8C first ascent.
Read article →Bern Delivered
Bern gave us drama, breakthrough moments, heartbreak, and confirmation of the sport's next dominant force. From Sorato's relentless winning streak to Australia's historic first gold, competition climbing continues to evolve at full speed.
Maximillian Milne Makes the Finals in Bern
"Does this count?! Doesn't matter. I MADE THE FINALS IN BERN!!!" The semifinal felt like a final. Thanks to the crowd and friends for screaming him through.
View post →Mejdi Schalck Takes Silver in Bern Again
2nd place in Bern, again. Grateful to live moments like this — and Schalck can feel the progress. Congrats to Sorato Anraku and Hannes Van Duysen.
View post →Sorato Anraku Wins Boulder World Series Bern
After third in Bern last year, Anraku got his revenge. He doesn't usually show much emotion, so being able to express it freely was fun. "I just want to win. That's what drives me."
View post →Reusa, Rauter Win European Golds in Liptovský Mikuláš
Reusa and Rauter took gold medals at the European Championships in Liptovský Mikuláš.
Read article →Beyond Product Drops
Gear isn't just about new shiny equipment this week. It's also about stewardship, sustainability, and the infrastructure that keeps climbing possible. From rebolting initiatives to purpose-driven collaborations, this section looks at the tools — and responsibilities — that shape the sport beyond performance.
Arc'teryx Backs Access Fund's Anchor Replacement Fund
Arc'teryx is the presenting partner of the Access Fund's Anchor Replacement Fund. This year, funding supported the (Re)New the Cirque project — replacing fixed hardware on 20 routes at the Cirque, one of the premier crags of the New River Gorge.
View post →Petzl × Picture × Protect Our Winters Limited Collection
A limited-edition four-piece collection offering a more inclusive, genuine, and grounded vision of the outdoors. All profits go to Protect Our Winters Europe.
View post →What's in My Sport-Climbing Kit
Evening Sends shares the gear that actually gets used: Scarpa Drago XT, Mammut Crag Sender, Petzl Neox, Arc'teryx Skaha harness, and everything else.
Read article →The Human Side of Climbing
Behind the sends and podiums, this week is about bodies, minds, setbacks, and perspective. Athlete health takes center stage, injuries force tough decisions, and climbing once again proves it can be much bigger than grades.
Reel Rock — Dean Potter Free Soloing High on El Cap
Bryan Smith, Mikey Schaefer and Reel Water captured intense footage of Dean Potter free soloing high on El Cap, featured in episode three of HBO's The Dark Wizard.
View post →Jimmy Chin Joins COROS as Global Brand Ambassador
Climber. Photographer. Storyteller. COROS welcomes Jimmy Chin as a global brand ambassador, with a write-up on his approach to expeditions, storytelling, and how COROS fits into mountain life.
View post →Natalia Grossman's First Day Campusing Since Shoulder Injury
First day campusing since January's shoulder injury. Grateful to be back on the wall after significant time away — still a long road. Grossman recommends the book Rebound and the Curable chronic pain app, and is starting school in clinical mental health this fall.
View post →Weekend Whipper: Ice Climbing Fall Rips Two Screws
Finnish climber Aku Aspila takes a massive fall high on the second pitch of Sodoma (WI5) in Italy's Valle d'Aosta — two screws rip out during the runout.
View post →40 Years of Rock Master — Ondra Meets Severino Scassa
Adam Ondra meets Severino Scassa, who experienced Rock Master both as spectator and climber. From silent crowds to a true show on the wall — Rock Master keeps evolving, with the next edition this October in Arco.
View post →Climbing Spot: Verzasca No Big — Cava del Nonno
Exploring Cava del Nonno, a new "no big" crag in Val Verzasca, with local climber and route-setter Rudi Martini.
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