Milestones, Mindsets & The Next Generation
Twenty-five editions later, the climbing world still finds new ways to inspire. This week's stories prove that progress comes in many forms: historic competition runs, visionary ascents, honest reflections, and conversations that challenge where our sport is heading. Welcome to our 25th edition — a small milestone for me, and another unforgettable week for climbing.
The Stories Everyone Is Talking About
Some stories define a week far beyond grades and podiums. Alex Honnold reminds us that world-class climbing often starts in your own backyard, while The Dark Wizard brings Dean Potter's extraordinary legacy back into the spotlight. We also explore why more gym climbers are choosing to stay indoors, what summer bouldering really demands, and the introspective short film Contatto, which asks whether climbing is still about joy — or increasingly about results.
Alex Honnold's Backyard: Laps on the Kraft Mountain Boulders
Honnold's summer "yard work" looks less like mowing and more like afternoon laps on the Kraft Mountain boulders outside his Las Vegas home.
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Sorato Anraku: Five Boulder Golds in a Row in Innsbruck
Five wins in a row. "I'm at a loss for words. I always feel a mix of joy and the pressure of wondering when I'll lose. I manage to turn the pressure into my own strength."
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The Dark Wizard — Dean Potter Now Streaming on HBO Max
Dean Potter, unhindered by earthly bounds. Cinematography by Bryan Smith and Reel Water. The Dark Wizard now streaming on HBO Max.
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Janja Garnbret's Career: 50 Golds and 10 World Championships in 11 Years
A retrospective of Janja Garnbret's full career — 50 gold medals and 10 World Championships in 11 years.
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Erin McNeice's 4th Podium in a Row, Max Milne's Historic 7th Final
Erin McNeice adds Boulder silver in Innsbruck — her 4th consecutive Boulder World Series medal. Max Milne makes history with the most Boulder finals by a British male — 7 in total.
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Contatto — A Short Film on the Soul of Bouldering
A short film by Origini that asks whether climbing is still about joy and self-discovery — or increasingly about speed, expectations, and the obsession with results.
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More Climbers Than Ever Are Choosing the Gym Over the Crag
A 2026 Climbing Wall Association survey points to a striking trend: more climbers say they aren't interested in climbing outside. Rock and Ice digs into the data.
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Summer Bouldering — How to Beat the Heat
Bouldering outside this summer? Gripped offers tips for climbing harder in rough conditions.
Read article →Limits Exist to Be Redefined
The outdoor season keeps delivering. Mejdi Schalck repeats Simon Lorenzi's stunning Power of Now Direct (8C) in Magic Wood, Stefano Ghisolfi quietly adds another world-class boulder to his résumé while building toward an even bigger project, and Giovanni Placci opens the doors to his ambitious La Rage d'Adam (9b/+) journey. From flash ascents to national milestones and groundbreaking new routes, this week celebrates climbers who refuse to stop progressing.
Mejdi Schalck Repeats Power of Now Direct 8C/V15 in Magic Wood
Despite bad conditions, Schalck sent Simon Lorenzi's Power of Now Direct in few goes. Coming back two years after doing the higher start and feeling much stronger on every move — sometimes outdoor blocs are the best way to measure progress.
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Stefano Ghisolfi Second Ascent of Quiet Storm 8B+ — Project PIG Begins
Second ascent of Quiet Storm 8B+ — and only the beginning of a bigger project. Starting with an 8A on the left, connecting the whole 8B+, and finishing on Rosa Maialino 8A.
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Compass North 8b+ Flashed — A Three-Year-Held Goal
Three years ago this climber forbade themselves to try Compass North in order to flash it later. The day finally came this spring — flashed in pure style.
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Route Spotlight: Demo Route (HS 4b) at Sennen
A Sennen classic — start at a right-leading flake, take a precarious chimney to a good ledge, then move up and undercut left to easier ground.
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Giovanni Placci Opens Up About La Rage d'Adam 9b/+ Project
Giovanni Placci launches his YouTube channel with the story of his extreme project — the 9b/+ La Rage d'Adam in Verdon.
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Dario Di Gabriele Sends Monotropia 9a — First Sicilian at the Grade
An E9 short film follows Dario Di Gabriele on his personal journey to free Monotropia (9a) — becoming the first Sicilian to climb the grade.
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Jakob Schubert's B.I.G. Film Is Finally on YouTube
More than two years after the historic first ascent, Jakob Schubert's documentary B.I.G. — A World First is freely available on YouTube after an extensive festival tour.
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Tepeyóllotl (5.14 Trad) — A New Era of Mexican Wall Climbing
A new route on the side of a volcano captures a rare combination of remoteness, commitment, and physical difficulty on a seldom-climbed cliff. One of the hardest routes in Mexico.
Read article →Champions Keep Raising the Standard
Even after Innsbruck, the competitive season refuses to slow down. Annie Sanders continues her breakout year with another spectacular victory, Sorato Anraku's incredible winning streak keeps growing, and Jakob Schubert shows that experience is still one of the sport's greatest weapons. Meanwhile, national competitions and the road toward Koper are already building excitement for the next chapter of the World Cup season.
Annie Sanders Flashes Her Way to Innsbruck Boulder Gold
Sanders continued her dream season in Innsbruck — flashing the toughest problem of the final to claim her second Boulder Series gold of 2026.
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Jakob Schubert Reflects on Two 3rd Places in 2026
After a tough 2025 marked by injury and only two competitions, Schubert is back on the circuit. Two bronze medals so far — "satisfied but hungry for more." Chamonix is next.
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Koper World Cup Ticket Giveaway — Lead Semis & Finals
Austria Climbing and Slovenia Climbing team up to give away 1x2 tickets for the Lead Semifinals & Finals at the Koper World Climbing Series, September 4–5.
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Coppa Italia: Strocchi & Ponzinibio Take Gold, Colli Sets New National Record
At the Coppa Italia speed competition in Mezzolombardo, Sara Strocchi and Francesco Ponzinibio win gold while Beatrice Colli sets a new Italian record of 6.51 seconds.
Read article →The Smallest Piece Can Matter Most
This week's gear story isn't about buying something new — it's about making sure what you're already trusting is safe. A frightening broken quicklink serves as a powerful reminder that even the strongest climbers rely on equipment that deserves constant attention. One careful inspection can be the difference between another great day on the wall and disaster.
The Bigger Picture of Climbing
Climbing isn't only about sending harder routes — it's about the lives built around them. Alex Honnold searches for new inspiration close to home, Chris Sharma invites climbers to experience Mallorca through his eyes, Janja Garnbret reflects on an unforgettable spring, and ambitious alpine expeditions prepare for the challenges ahead. Add thought-provoking discussions on injury prevention, forgotten climbing history, and the future of outdoor climbing, and this becomes a collection of stories that reaches far beyond the crag.
Alex Honnold Wants Beta for Lover's Leap
Honnold tried Eeyore's Enigma — a 5-pitch 5.10- squeeze chimney — at Lover's Leap, and posts asking the community for big solo link-ups, hard routes, or chalky classics. Inspiration wanted.
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Janja Garnbret's Spring in Photos — April, May, June
Janja Garnbret looks back on her three-month run of historic outdoor and World Cup results: "april, may, june 🫶🏼"
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Chris Sharma Hosts Deep Water Solo Retreats in Mallorca
Sharma announces two deep water solo and sport climbing retreats in Mallorca, October 18–27, with Altitude and Rock and Water Mallorca. His favourite place to climb.
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Marek Holecek Heads to Nanga Parbat's Rupal Wall
Czech alpinist Marek Holecek and Tomáš Petrecek depart for Nanga Parbat — eight years after their first attempt, looking to open a demanding new route on the Rupal Wall in uncompromising alpine style.
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Endurance Italia — Hervé Barmasse's Sporting and Mental Challenge
Italian mountaineer Hervé Barmasse enters the final phase of Endurance Italia — combining mountaineering, cycling, and trail running across the highest peaks of every Italian region.
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The 10 Most Impressive Climbing Achievements of 2026 So Far
Six months into the year, Rock and Ice editors take stock of the biggest and most awe-inspiring ascents — a scary first ascent, fresh records, and more of the biggest feats of 2026 so far.
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Beyond Yosemite — The Forgotten Legacy of Southern Sierra Climbing
E.C. Joe's book Rites of Passage explores the overlooked history of climbing in the Southern Sierra Nevada — essential reading for anyone fascinated by climbing's history.
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Injured vs Resilient Climbers — A Physio's Quick-Win Advice
Doctor of Physical Therapy Jared Vagy explains the importance of strength, technique, and quick exercises for injury prevention. If you only have 15 minutes to injury-proof yourself, here's where to focus.
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