Records, First Ascents & The Endless Pursuit of Better
Another week. Another reminder that climbing never stands still. World records were shattered, new lines were born, and some of the sport's biggest names continued pushing their personal limits. From competition walls to untouched rock, this edition captures a week defined by ambition, creativity, and the relentless search for what's next.
The Stories You Won't Want to Miss
History was written as Emma Hunt became the first woman ever to break the six-second barrier in speed climbing, redefining what seemed possible. Stefano Ghisolfi unveiled another world-class first ascent, while The Dark Wizard continues uncovering the lesser-known story of Graham Hunt. We also dive into a fascinating debate on whether climbing grades should evolve to better reflect the true character of a route.
Emma Hunt Breaks the 6-Second Barrier — First Woman at 5.99s
Emma Hunt has set a new speed climbing world record at 5.99 seconds — becoming the first woman ever to go under 6 seconds.
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Should Sport Climbing Grades Get a Two-Part System?
Brigham Willis proposes a new two-part grading system for sport climbs: one grade for the hardest move, one for how sustained the route is. Would this actually make grading better — or just fuel more debate?
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Stefano Ghisolfi First Ascent of P.I.G. 8C
The Project PIG comes together — 8C first ascent. "Unfortunately it was not as hard as I expected, but fun anyway!"
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Chuy Fierro Frees Tepeyóllotl 5.14a/b Trad on El Centinela
On April 4, Ulises "Chuy" Fierro made the first free ascent of Tepeyóllotl — an 820-foot 5.14a/b mostly trad line on El Centinela. Over a year of work, with a rule to place as few bolts as possible.
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Graham Hunt — Quiet Master of the Flying Arts in The Dark Wizard
A young, penniless protege of Dean Potter with zero social media footprint, Graham "Grambo" Hunt evolved into a world-class wingsuit pilot. A legend unto himself, now featured in The Dark Wizard on HBO Max.
View post →New Lines, New Standards
This week belongs to the route developers and visionaries. Stefano Ghisolfi adds yet another elite first ascent with P.I.G. (8C) before quickly following it up with Big Snapper (8C), while Seb Bouin continues shaping Sanetsch into one of Europe's hottest hard climbing destinations. Alexander Megos delivers an incredible streak of first ascents and flashes, and stories like Tepeyóllotl remind us that bold style and commitment can matter just as much as the final grade.
Seb Bouin Opens Riche en Trichant 8c at Sanetsch
Bouin checks in on his Swiss project — bagging the FA of Pitch 1 "Riche en trichant" (8c), plus a Chris Frick route around 8a+/b. Physical stuff in Switzerland is rare — Sanetsch may be one of the few places in Central Europe with hard projects and good conditions.
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Stefano Ghisolfi Sends Big Snapper 8C/V15
Ghisolfi caps his run with Big Snapper 8C/V15.
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Alex Megos: Three FAs at Hülloch — Frankenschelle 8B+/C
Second day at Hülloch, at least as good as the first: FA of Frankenschelle 8B+/C (the hardest boulder in the cave), FA of Frankenpranken 8B, and a flash of Zangengeburt 8A.
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Alex Megos: Shoulder Press 8c/+ FA in Thüringen
Shoulder Press 8c/+ — second FA in Thüringen. Interesting sequence with rather big holds for such a slabby climb. Great line and 5-star climbing.
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Brazz Sends The Finnish Line — An Emotional Rocklands Send
"For me, the most beautiful line in the world." A years-long dream. Trembling before the first attempt, one fall at the crux, then — after 30 minutes staring into the void — the send. Pure emotion.
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Marcello Bombardi Re-Frees Murano Low at 8C/+
At Champorcher, Marcello Bombardi re-liberates the Murano Low line after a key hold broke — re-evaluating the boulder to 8C/+.
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9a+ for Blasco and Poindefert — El Picacho and Supercrackinette
Enrique Beltran Blasco sends El Picacho (previously 9b), while Arthur Poindefert breaks through from 8c to 9a+ with Supercrackinette.
Read article →Speed Keeps Rewriting History
Competition climbing produced one of its defining moments of the season. Emma Hunt's historic 5.99-second run broke one of the sport's last great barriers, while Kraków delivered even more record-breaking performances and unforgettable finals. At the same time, the next generation continues to emerge through Youth Nationals and European youth competitions, proving that the future of competition climbing is already here.
The North Face Climb Festival London Returns
A jaw-dropping finals climb from the 2024 archives — the TNF Climb Festival is back in London in less than two weeks.
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Emma Hunt 5.99 — World Record in Kraków Quarter-Finals
Emma Hunt broke the world record in the quarter-finals at Kraków, becoming the first woman to score a sub-6-second run at 5.99.
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USA Climbing Youth Nationals U20 Boulder Podium
🥇 Carly Alba and Anderson Fuhrer, 🥈 Sabrina Levine and Daniel Nydam, 🥉 Victoria Yu and Vance Stanfield. Replays on the USA Climbing YouTube channel.
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Kraków Speed Recap — Hunt Bronze, Kusuma Dewi Gold
After breaking the world record in the quarter-finals, a stumble in the final left Hunt with bronze. 🇮🇩 Desak Made Rita Kusuma Dewi gold at 6.54, 🇵🇱 Natalia Kalucka silver at 6.62. Aleksandra Miroslaw false-started in the final race of her career.
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China Sweeps Speed Relay Golds in Kraków — More Records Fall
Long Jianguo and Chu Shouhong claim the men's title, while Zhou Yafei and Deng Lijuan become the first women's team to break the 13-second barrier.
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Skymarathon Sentiero 4 Luglio 2026 — Ghirardi's Women's Record
The 29th edition of Skymarathon Sentiero 4 Luglio in Corteno Golgi saw Ghirardi set a new women's record, and Minoggio win the men's category.
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European Youth Difficulty Cup Kicks Off in Dornbirn
The first stage of the European Difficulty Cup for youth climbers takes place in Dornbirn, Austria, on July 4–5.
Read article →Knowledge Is Part of Your Rack
Not every piece of climbing gear fits into your backpack. This week's stories focus on the systems behind safe climbing — from spending a night on a portaledge during the Arc'teryx Alpine Academy to the UIAA's latest collection of anchor and bolting resources. The more you understand your equipment and fixed protection, the more confidently you can explore bigger objectives.
Arc'teryx Alpine Academy — A Night on the Portaledge Above Chamonix
"Climbing & Portaledge" introduced Academy participants to multi-pitch wall systems with Nina Caprez — from setting up a portaledge and managing wall systems to sleeping suspended above the Chamonix valley.
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UIAA Launches Rock Anchors & Bolting Resource Hub
The UIAA rock anchors & bolting hub brings together UIAA Standard 123, bolting guides, corrosion and anchor-safety information, and technical documents for climbers and bolters.
View post →Beyond the Numbers
Not every important climbing story can be measured in grades or medals. Adam Ondra reflects on discovering the Dolomites between World Cup preparations, The Dark Wizard shines a light on the remarkable life of Graham Hunt, and an opinion piece questions whether traditional grading still tells the whole story of a climb. Together, they remind us that climbing is as much about perspective, history, and personal experience as it is about performance.
Adam Ondra Finds the Dolomites — Between World Cup Rounds
The Dolomites always got away — one-day visits before continuing elsewhere. In May, Laggio Laboratorio became a perfect side project alongside lead World Cup training. Full article on Mammut's site.
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Sean Bailey on Mellow Mag Volume 02 — Duality of Man 9c
Sean Bailey on the cover of Mellow Mag Volume 02, shot during the first ascent of Duality of Man (5.15d/9c). Last 48 hours to subscribe for Volumes 03 + 04.
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Snake Dike Bolts Chopped — Route Restored to Original 1960s Runouts
Two weeks after a guidebook author added new bolts to Snake Dike and reignited a firestorm, climbers have restored the route to its original runout state from the '60s. The chopper explains why.
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