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Edition #29

Legacy, Perspective & The Spirit of the Mountains

Not every memorable week is defined by the hardest grade. This edition is about the stories that stay with us long after the send. Historic achievements meet honest reflections, competition delivers unforgettable moments, and conversations about protecting our climbing spaces remind us that the future of the sport depends on more than performance alone.

The Stories That Shaped This Week

From Chris Sharma reflecting on the legacy of Biographie, to Oriane Bertone's deeply personal words after becoming European Champion, this week was filled with stories that reached beyond the scorecard. Add the growing debate around Bears Ears and World Climbing's controversial assembly decisions, and it's clear that climbing continues to evolve both on and off the wall.

@oriane_bertone

Oriane Bertone's Reflection After Becoming European Champion

"What a weekend!" After one of her toughest seasons, Bertone took gold in Barcelona. "I'm Oriane — a climber, athlete, daughter, friend, sister, girlfriend, cook, artist… and I don't want to be defined by just one of them anymore. A calm sea never made a skilled sailor."

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@rockmasterfestival

Rock Master Celebrates 40 Years of Climbing History

40 years of climbing history, all in one place — from the rock to the stadium, from the past to what's next. Come experience it October 2-4 in Arco.

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@chris_sharma

Chris Sharma Reflects on 25 Years of Biographie

25 years since Sharma's first ascent of Realization/Biographie (5.15a/9a+) — "still the most perfect piece of rock I've ever climbed, the definition and measuring stick of a king line." A five-year journey and 100+ tries he started at age 16.

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@climbable_official

World Climbing Cancels Vote on Banning Russia, Belarus & Israel

The July 23 assembly did not vote to individually ban Israel, Russia, and Belarus. After the IOC provisionally lifted Russia's Olympic suspension, members passed a "principles-based framework" aligned with the IOC instead — with Israel and Russia's cases referred to the Disciplinary Commission.

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IFSC

Bertone and Milne Claim Boulder Titles at the European Championship

Maximillian Milne and Oriane Bertone claimed the continental Boulder titles under the Barcelona sun, with Belgium and Italy also taking spots on the podiums.

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GrippedMagazine

USA Climbing Brings Boulder World Cup to a Historic Baseball Stadium

USA Climbing will transform Salt Lake City's iconic Smith's Ballpark into a one-of-a-kind climbing arena for the World Climbing Series Salt Lake City 2026.

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ClimbingMag

Trump Strips Monument Protections from 1,200 Indian Creek Routes

Six Shooters, Scarface, and more than 1,200 climbing routes across 50 walls at Indian Creek have been stripped of Bears Ears National Monument protection, as shown in new maps — now on land open to leasing for drilling and mining.

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More Than Just a Send

Elite climbers once again reminded us that every ascent tells a different story. Janja Garnbret adds another iconic route to her résumé, Jakob Schubert reflects on the fascinating complexity behind finally sending Shaolin, and Alex Honnold returns to the Tetons for a demanding alpine adventure. Alongside standout performances from Alexander Megos, Antoine Girard and the next generation of young talent, this week's ascents celebrate persistence just as much as achievement.

@janja_garnbret

Janja Garnbret Makes Quick Work of Pornographie 9a in Céüse

"I really thought I was done with Céüse after sending Bibliographie, but I couldn't resist one more trip." Good friends, new projects, endless stoke, and a quick send of Pornographie (9a).

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@alexhonnold

Alex Honnold Tackles the Cathedral Traverse in the Tetons

Between travel for a Jackson Hole work event, Honnold attempted the Grand Traverse — only his second-ever day climbing in the Tetons. He came down after the Cathedral Traverse: ~9k of vert, endless scrambling, and the highest elevation he'd been to all year.

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@jakob.schubert

Jakob Schubert on the Fascinating Complexity Behind Sending Shaolin

"Sometimes I feel like I still don't understand climbing at all." After falling on the last move the day before, it took Schubert 10 tries the next day to get through the first crux — a reflection on how mental state, conditions, and physical readiness combine in the sport.

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@alexandermegos

Alex Megos on the Campus Crux of Baby Cakes 9a

"Doesn't happen so often that the crux of a route is a campus move — and the campus is actually the easiest solution!" Nowra is officially the best area in Australia.

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@lasportivagram

Nadir Maguet's Matterhorn Record Attempt — 3h 01' 48"

The clock stopped at 3h 01' 48" — but a record attempt on the Matterhorn is about more than the final time. Years of training, route recon, and deep knowledge of one of the Alps' most demanding mountains behind every second.

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@alexandermegos

Alex Megos Completes the Big Fat Trilogy with Saturated Fat 8c+

"If you can climb a route in under 90 seconds it gets at least 4 stars." A cheeky Saturated Fat 34 (8c+) at the end of the day completes the Big Fat Trilogy at Nowra.

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@planetmountain

Anna Chiaruttini's Rare Rope-Solo of Deye Peters Route in the Julian Alps

"A great adventure!" Anna Chiaruttini made a rare rope-solo ascent of the classic Deye Peters route on Torre delle Madri dei Camosci (2,503m) with one bivouac — likely the first female solo of the 1929 line.

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UpClimbing

Antoine Girard Repeats Livin' Large — His First 8C+

At Rocklands, Frenchman Antoine Girard makes the fifth ascent of Livin' Large — his first 8C+.

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GrippedMagazine

13-Year-Old Leo Cea Climbs a Frankenjura Test-Piece

13-year-old Leo Cea continues his send train at one of the world's most famous climbing areas with another Frankenjura test-piece.

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Champions Rise, Futures Emerge

The competition season continues to deliver emotional moments. Oriane Bertone and Max Milne crowned themselves European Boulder Champions in Barcelona, while youth athletes from around the world announced themselves at the World Youth Championships in Arco. National titles, rising stars and new venues on the horizon prove that competition climbing is entering another exciting chapter.

@maxthefuture

Max Milne: "European Champion 2026!!!"

"I keep finding myself about to burst into tears of shock and happiness." Milne reflects on his win and his purpose — found climbing at 10 during his mum's cancer battle, and now channeling that on the mats to inspire others.

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@deutscheralpenverein

German Speed Climbing Champions Crowned

The German Speed Championship podiums: Sebastian Lucke wins the men's individual, Mina Josephine Schultz the women's, and Nele Thomas & Andrin Zedler the relay.

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@usaclimbing

USA Climbing Boulder Finals — Watch Tonight

Qualification and semi-finals done. Tune in to watch the Boulder Finals unfold.

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@schweizeralpenclub

Amélie Kägi: European and Now World Youth Champion

Amélie Kägi secures U17 Boulder gold at the World Climbing Youth Championship in Arco, after already winning the European title in Sukoró. Gilles Meili adds a second Swiss medal — U19 speed bronze.

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@usaclimbing

World Climbing Series Salt Lake City Comes to Smith's Ballpark — Oct 16-18

USA Climbing steps up to the plate with a new venue: Smith's Ballpark. The World Climbing Series Salt Lake City 2026 runs October 16-18, with tickets on sale the first week of August.

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@climbable_official

World Youth Championship Arco — Full Results

Boulder golds to Beomjin Park, Paula Mayer-Vorfelder, Kazuki Nakata and Amélie Kägi; Lead golds to Chanjin Jung, Anika Deubler, Kazuki Nakata and Arisa Hayashi; plus speed titles across the categories.

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UpClimbing

World Youth Championship — Matteo Reusa Takes Bronze

At the World Youth Championship in Arco, Matteo Reusa takes bronze in bouldering, with Chiara Franceschi and Leonardo Donola also reaching the finals.

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Prepared for the Unexpected

The best adventures begin long before leaving the ground. Petzl's multi-pitch essentials, EDELRID's ultralight CANARY rope and a deep dive into short-fixing all focus on one common theme: preparation. Whether you're heading into the mountains or onto a long sport route, knowledge and the right equipment remain your most valuable partners.

Climbing Is Bigger Than Climbing

Some of this week's most important stories happened far away from the crux. Chris Sharma celebrates 25 years since Biographie changed climbing forever, Rock Master prepares to celebrate four decades of history, and the ongoing discussion around Bears Ears reminds us how closely our sport is tied to protecting the landscapes we love. Together with debates surrounding World Climbing governance, these stories explore the responsibility that comes with being part of this community.

@climbingmagazine

World Climbing Assembly Skips Vote on Israel, Russia & Belarus

More than 70 federations gathered for an expected vote; the U.S., Australia and Cyprus asked the assembly to skip it entirely, and their motion passed by a slight majority. Climbing Magazine also examines ties between Israel's federation and West Bank settler activity.

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@climbingmagazine

New Maps: 80% of Indian Creek's Climbing Falls Outside Protection

New maps reveal that more than 80% of Indian Creek's climbing — over 1,200 routes across 50 walls, including Scarface, Sparks Wall and the Six Shooter Towers — now falls on BLM land open to drilling and mining leases.

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@accessfund

Access Fund: Climbers Stand With Bears Ears

The monument boundary reduction stripped protections for over 80% of the climbing within the original Bears Ears boundary. Access Fund remains committed to restoring landscape-scale protection for this sacred landscape.

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@ffmontagne_escalade

FFME Bids Farewell to Manon Hily

Manon Hily competed in her final competition last week in Chamonix, closing out 17 years of competition across boulder, lead and speed. "The French team is and will remain your family — come back whenever you want."

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@ukclimbing

UKClimbing's Top 10 Climbing & Mountaineering Photos

This week's user-voted Top 10 — from Tom high on the Cassin to a traditional bar-towel ascent of Windbreaker and the winning groove on the arête.

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Desnivel

World Climbing Cancels Vote on Suspending Israel, Russia and Belarus

A motion presented by the USA, Australia and Cyprus proposing a "new common framework for the participation of federations" paralyzed the expected suspension vote.

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