Edition #30: Back on the Wall | Climbers Delight

Bigger Than the Grade

Seb Bouin's Movementum stretches the idea of a project to almost absurd proportions: 120-130 metres of climbing, Move as only part of the equation, another 9a+ section above it and a possible 9c at the end of the journey. But this week's biggest stories aren't all about difficulty. Hazel Findlay sends E10 after becoming a mother, Resistance Climbing finds freedom and hope amid war, Mont Blanc's worsening rockfall danger forces major hut closures, and Ukraine and Switzerland take gold in Žilina.

Resistance Climbing: Finding Freedom and Hope Amid War

Climbing feels like freedom. Climbing Gold returns to the climbers of Resistance Climbing to learn how they've kept finding joy and hope even as the walls close in — with Asia Zughaiar, Faris, and Tim Bruns.

@alpin_bergmagazin

Heatwave Forces Closure of Mont Blanc's Key Refuges

The ongoing heatwave has worsened conditions on Mont Blanc. After Italian guides suspended their summit tours, the two most important huts on the French normal route — Tête-Rousse and Goûter — are now closed indefinitely due to extreme rockfall danger in the Grand Couloir.

Seb Bouin Reveals Movementum — A Possible 9c Mega-Line

Around 80 metres of sustained climbing on a line stretching 120-130 metres. Movementum adds a 9a+ pitch above Move — connecting Little Badder, Move and now this new vision. "I first imagined a hard 9b+. But it feels more and more like this could be closer to 9c."

Hazel Findlay Sends Yma O Hyd (E10) as a Mother

When Hazel Findlay sent Yma O Hyd (E10/5.14 trad), she surprised herself. "When I became a mum, I didn't know whether I'd still feel motivated to climb hard trad. It's taken a lot of support, plenty of persistence and a lot of being very tired. I'm really proud that I found a way to make it happen."

Gold Medals for Ukraine and Switzerland in Žilina

Polina Khalkevych of Ukraine won the women's speed gold in 6.67 — the fastest time of the final — with teammate Mariia Shymkova taking silver, giving Ukraine both top spots.

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From 9a Flashes to 130-Metre Dreams

Even without our highlighted sends, the last two weeks delivered plenty: Giovanni Placci flashes The Famous Gem 9a, Katherine Choong dispatches the nine-pitch Yeah Man 8b+ in a day, and Michaela Kiersch takes down the iconic Hazel Grace 8B+. Elsewhere, Alex Honnold gets beautifully lost on Marmolada, Stefano Ghisolfi helps unlock new upside-down sequences in Daone, Alexander Megos adds a sit start in Norway, and Seb Bouin battles the brutal final crux of Movementum.

Alex Honnold Gets Lost on Marmolada's Tempi Moderni

Photos from climbing Tempi Moderni (28 pitch, 5.11+) on the Marmolada — a sunrise hike-in, tons of wildlife, and a hard time following the route since you can climb almost anywhere on the big face. He and Josh McCoy got lost and climbed the upper third of a route to the left, but topped out in time for the gondola down.

Stefano Ghisolfi Opens Enjoy the Silence 8B+ in Daone

A good day in Daone cleaning a new line, building the landing, and first-ascending Enjoy the Silence 8B+ — an upside-down-move gem that's part of the bigger Double Silence sit-start project.

@alexandermegos

Alex Megos Adds a Sit Start to Ghettowitch in Norway

Back in Norway for a short bouldering trip. After flashing Ghettowitch at Justøya, Megos found a possible sit start — Ghettowitch Sit 8A+ (possible FA). A really good line.

@lasportivagram

Adam Ondra's First Repetition of Circus Maximus in Saxony

On his spring Saxony trip, Ondra made the first repetition (all-free, with falls and rests, but no redpoint) of Robert Leistner's legendary Circus Maximus XIb — a 60-meter face still awaiting its first redpoint after 14 years, potentially the hardest route ever climbed ground-up without chalk.

Seb Bouin Battles Movementum's Final Crux

The last crux is the true apotheosis of the route. After roughly 80 meters of climbing, you still need enough explosive power for the big move to a right-hand sloper, then finger strength to finish on tiny crimps. "From the ground, I didn't expect it to be this spicy."

@brazz_fromtheflock

Brazz Sends Adularia and Child of Hell — Two 8c/V15s at Gottardo

A one-week trip to Gottardo to escape the heat: Adularia 8c/V15 and Child of Hell 8c/V15. Two really different styles, both with amazing rock quality and effort. "Truly enjoyed my time up there."

Katherine Choong Climbs the Nine-Pitch Yeah Man 8b+ in a Day

Six years after her first visit, Katherine Choong redpointed Yeah Man (8b+) on the north face of Grand Pfad in a single day — all nine pitches in the eighth grade on lead.

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Michaela Kiersch Repeats Hazel Grace 8B+ at Gottardo

A Mellow film by Giuliano Cameroni follows Michaela Kiersch on her repeat of the iconic Hazel Grace 8B+ at Gottardo.

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Giovanni Placci Flashes The Famous Gem 9a in La Saume

On July 20, Giovanni Placci flashed The Famous Gem (9a) in La Saume, France — the hardest flash ascent of his career and a milestone for Italian sport climbing, capping an extraordinary run in the Briançon area.

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Lynn Hill on Midnight Lightning in Yosemite

A look back at Lynn Hill in 1998 making the first female ascent of the iconic Midnight Lightning on the Columbia Boulder — first ascended by Ron Kauk in 1978 and arguably the most famous boulder problem in the world.

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Paris in the Rear-View, LA on the Horizon

Two years after Paris 2024, the Olympic countdown has quietly flipped: there are now only two years left until Los Angeles. Toby Roberts is already looking forward, while Colin Duffy reflects on the pressure, noise and goosebumps of his own Paris experience as he works his way back into hard climbing. And the competitive landscape keeps evolving — Salt Lake City's baseball stadium becomes a World Climbing Series arena this October, while Madrid experiments with bringing competition climbing directly into the urban environment.

Toby Roberts: "2 Years to Go — LA 2028 I'll Be Ready"

Two years after Paris, two years to go until LA 2028 — Toby Roberts is already looking ahead to the next Olympics.

Colin Duffy Reflects on Paris — Two Years On

"I get goosebumps whenever I think back to this event. The crowd was electric, the pressure was inexplicable." With LA 2028 only two years away, Colin Duffy is excited to keep pushing.

From Baseball to Boulder — Smith's Ballpark Hosts the World Cup

This October, Smith's Ballpark in Salt Lake City becomes the stage for the World Climbing Series, welcoming the world's best Boulder athletes from October 16-18.

Colin Duffy Back to Hard Climbing at Tension's New Center

Slowly getting back to hard climbing after his finger injury — Duffy shares favourite blocs on "The Beast" spray wall at the new Tension Climbing training center: Grizzly V13, Mbaaapppeee V12, Soap Campus V11/12, and Beef Camp V12.

First Urban Climbing Competition Comes to Torrejón, Madrid

On October 17-18, the Madrid municipality of Torrejón de Ardoz hosts the first urban climbing competition, with 40 boulders distributed across the town's buildings.

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New Kit — and One Recall You Shouldn't Ignore

This section comes with something more important than another product launch: Simond has issued a safety recall for certain ALPINISM and VERTIKA quickdraws because of a potential wire-gate defect. If you own them, this one deserves your attention. On the lighter side, Patagonia looks to polar landscapes for its Fall '26 collection, EDELRID breaks down the correct OHMEGA setup, and Lara Neumeier puts Arc'teryx's ultralight Lithos SL harness through its paces on Swiss rock.

Safety Recall: Simond ALPINISM & VERTIKA Quickdraws

Simond is recalling its ALPINISM & VERTIKA quickdraws due to a defect in the wire-gate riveting, which could cause the wire gate to break and increase the risk of the carabiner failing in a fall. If you own them, this one deserves your attention.

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Patagonia's Fall '26 Collection Draws on Polar Landscapes

For Fall '26, Patagonia's designers studied the polar regions — the ice, the cold, and how polar animals adapt — for new colors and patterns, including the new "Smudge" print capturing penguins huddling for warmth.

Edelrid Breaks Down the OHMEGA ++ Mode Setup

Two ways to set up the OHMEGA in ++ mode: a girth-hitch setup for permanent ++ use offers more flexibility, while forming two loops is more practical if you regularly switch between modes.

Arc'teryx Lithos SL Harness Tested with Lara Neumeier

Arc'teryx's new ultralight sport-climbing harness weighs almost nothing, with just two gear loops and a 2mm-thick hip belt. Lacrux's editor tested it alongside pro athlete Lara Neumeier at Les Eaux Noires, Switzerland.

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Freedom, Risk and a Life Remembered

Climbing's edges extend far beyond performance this week. Jimmy Chin captures the clandestine world of Yosemite BASE jumping at dusk, while Climbing Magazine remembers Jake Whisenant — El Cap speed record holder, first ascensionist, route developer and, to those closest to him, a relentlessly joyful presence — after his death in the Sierra. Together with this edition's highlighted stories from Resistance Climbing and Mont Blanc, they are reminders of how many different things the mountains can represent.

Jimmy Chin: Phantoms at Dusk — Yosemite BASE Jumping

"Phantoms at dusk." Since BASE jumping is illegal in Yosemite National Park, flights are often made at first or last light to avoid detection. A striking Jimmy Chin frame.

@climbingmagazine

Remembering Jake Whisenant

On August 2, Jake Whisenant died in a climbing accident in the Sierra. The Lurking Fear speed record holder, FKT athlete, first ascensionist and route developer is remembered by his fiancée and friends as a "big-hearted mountain goat" with a lust for life.